History & Culture

The Short Life of the Cambodian Railroad

The Cambodian railroad began in the 1930s when French colonists wanted to ship Indochinese goods across the continent. The end of the Cambodian rice harvest coincides with the dry season, meaning that it was difficult to boat rice and other goods around the country at a scale large enough to satisfy colonial desires. Thus, the French built a railroad connecting the southern capital of Phnom Penh and the northwestern border town of Poipet to satisfy the trade needs of a rapidly growing population.

Everything changed after the onset of the American war with Vietnam. As easy bombing targets, Cambodian railroads became a deadly gamble that many people risked in order to travel and do business over long distances. When the Khmer Rouge took control of the country in 1975, they quickly removed over 40 kilometres of track stretching from Sisophon to the Thai border. Symbolically, this destruction represented their desire to shut themselves off from the rest of the world, preventing any trains from entering or leaving Cambodia. After the Khmer Rouge lost power in 1979, they continued to enact guerrilla warfare on train routes near Battambang until the 1990s. Mines along the tracks became so frequent that trains often placed large wooden platforms in front of the train to act as triggers for the mines before they could hit the main carriage cars. Poorer civilians would often risk their lives by riding on these platforms in order to travel for free. Some travellers preferred to risk the mines instead of riding in the carriage cars with the soldiers being sent to combat the Khmer Rouge, who were also targets for surprise attacks.

The Bamboo Train

The bamboo train, called the “norry” by locals in reference to the European term “lorry,” was born from the literal remains of Cambodia’s recent conflicts. Developed by resourceful survivors of the Khmer Rouge in the early 1980s, the bamboo train consists of little more than two heavy wheel and axle sets, originally removed from old military trucks and even broken tanks, which are covered with a flat bamboo slat and attached to a motor taken from old motorcycles or boats. The driver then slips a large rubber band over the rear axle and through the motor. To accelerate, the driver uses a stick to push the axle farther away from the motor, stretching the rubber band and creating greater tension, which spins the wheels. Slowing down is simply a reverse of that process. Nothing but careful placement and gravity holds the norry together, even as it moves between 40 and 50 kilometres per hour. The most famous bamboo train is found in the village of O Dambong II near Battambang in northwestern Cambodia, although smaller versions can occasionally be found in Kampong Chhnang and Sihanoukville,

Whenever two norries travelling in opposite directions meet, the unwritten rule is that the norry with heavier cargo can remain seated while the other must disassemble and clear the track (with the assistance of the other driver). This process takes no more than a minute or two, depending on the amount of cargo on board. No two bamboo trains are exactly alike because of the ramshackle nature of their construction, and no two drivers are the same in personality.

The Danger of Development

Since the mid-1990s there has been great interest in redeveloping the Cambodian railroad, but little headway has been made until the past several years. The development of the railroad threatens operators of the bamboo train and the villages that depend on them. Recently, the Asian Development Bank (ADB) agreed to provide partial funds for the restoration of the railroad, although much more money is still needed. A Chinese firm estimated the costs for new bridges alone to be $362 million, which does not account for the $600 million that they claim will be necessary to build the new track that finally connects Phnom Penh to Saigon. In order to raise sufficient funds for restoration, Cambodia struck a deal with the ADB and a private Australian development company, establishing a 30-year lease of the railroad in return for support in refurbishing it. This deal was later abandoned, but the government continues to shop the train's development to foreign countries (China in particular), meaning that the majority of the funds brought in by the railroad and the shipping of goods over the next few decades will never see Cambodian hands – at least, not the hands of common people.

Trains can carry more than goods, however, and possess the ability to bring in more tourists seeking adventure in Cambodia’s famous ruins. Unfortunately, the potential profits from tourism are not a priority of redevelopment. The ADB’s development team has stated that the ability to ship goods from prosperous trading countries like Thailand and Vietnam make the railroad more valuable when focused on freight and not tourism. In fact, Cambodia is not even a target of the trade routes because it does not currently produce enough stable commodities for the international marketplace. As foreign policy analyst Ronald Bruce St. John summarizes, “Both Cambodia and Laos remain at risk of becoming little more than a place to build a bridge, road, or railway, a transhipment point between the more economically vibrant areas of northeastern Thailand, southwestern China, and Vietnam.”

The ADB estimates that 189 norry operators and approximately 1,100 families will be affected by the loss of the bamboo train, and has set aside US$5-10 million for restitution funds for these families. However, most norry drivers have been unable to register for compensation or are considered bureaucratically ineligible for payment. The few drivers who did obtain funding only received about US$250, the equivalent of a mere month or two of work, which is not nearly enough to support their families and/or find new employment. The development is currently in discussion to be rerouted around the train, but the operators of the bamboo train constantly worry about their livelihood.

The restoration of the Cambodian railroad leaves many unanswered questions. What will happen to the thousands of people who depend on the bamboo train for survival, including the many tourist businesses in Battambang who will suffer from potentially losing the attraction? How will the alteration or disruption of the bamboo train disrupt their lives, from economic matters to matters of religion and identity? Will the memory of one of Cambodia’s most innovative and resourceful post-colonial, post-war inventions fade into the past? And will the railroad even benefit Cambodia at large, or only the rich government officials who are selling the road to foreign powers? Only time can tell, which is why it is important to document and support this amazing Cambodian experience for future generations.

Cultural & Economic Importance

The bamboo train is one of Cambodia’s most popular tourist attractions, and when you ask a bamboo train driver why he or she runs the norry, they will undoubtedly respond that it is “only for tourists.” This response is due to the overwhelming majority of profits coming from tourist dollars. However, the train has great cultural importance beyond tourism and is frequently used by locals for travel, work, and religious purposes.

An entire bamboo train costs approximately $400-500 USD to build and does not cost much to operate, making it a much cheaper option than the expensive motos that are found everywhere in Cambodia. Thus, the bamboo train has become a popular method of shipping goods to and from rural villages. Farmers also use the bamboo train to travel to rice paddies that may be far from their actual homes, extending the boundaries of land cultivation. If you travel the bamboo train, you will also probably see train parts lying along the track near water holes while locals swim and fish in the midday sun.

Importantly, the bamboo train line travels past Phnom Teppedey several hours down the track from the station. This mountain is an important religious site, and, until 2015, it was common to see trains with well-dressed Khmer men, women, and children whirring by on important festival days. The bamboo train is also an important symbol for local identity, and trains can sometimes be seen decorated in the distinctive bright yellow, pink, and white ribbons that signal a Cambodian wedding. For villagers who live near the bamboo train, the railway lines and the bamboo train are not only crucial to their economy, but important parts of their social and religious lives, although development is causing less and less private usage of the train.

Preserving the Bamboo Train

With the uncertainty of the future looming, the bamboo train must be protected and enjoyed as much as possible before it disappears. We are working on preserving materials from the train and archiving documents and photographs for museum display and future study. If you have any bamboo train photos or other materials that you'd like preserved, please contact us HERE.

If you want to help the bamboo train, please visit and help financially support the villagers. Buy some souvenirs and snacks, give a generous tip (outside of the view of the police!), and, importantly, get to know the people who operate this amazing machine! These are real people doing amazing things - take the time to learn from them and share their culture!