Visit the Bamboo Train!
Above: The typical route taken to the bamboo train (B), starting from (A) Psaar Nat - the central market of Battambang, near the Royal and Chhaya hotels. See more specific directions and map closeups below.
Step 1: Leave Psaar Nat and head south along the river
Step 3: Continue straight past Ta Dambong's roundabout. You'll pass a market on your right and a large open field to the left where local sports teams sometimes play. Take the big paved road to the right after the market and the gas station (not the dirt roads or road into the market).
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The bamboo train is located in the village of O Dambong II (pronounced Oh Dam-bong Pee) on the outskirts of Battambang. The easiest way to visit the bamboo train is to ask a local moto or tuk-tuk driver to take you. Drivers are used to tourists and will be happy to negotiate a price for your visit and return, plus it's a good way to support the local economy. You might even be able to convince your driver to take a ride with you, which might help you keep your seat when you run into another train (discussed more below)...
Another great option is to take a leisurely bicycle ride to the "station." Cambodian roads use a confusing number system, so we suggest using the maps and step-by-step directions we've provided here (to the left and below). Don't worry, if you get lost just ask the locals to help you find the "norry" and you'll soon be back on the right path. A typical trip on the train (approximately 20-30 minutes) costs about $5 per person, although we recommend giving your driver a little extra as well. Group rates are sometimes negotiable, but only at the driver's discretion. Remember: these are not set prices, but approximations of prices you will have to negotiate with the driver. The train is open every day of the year, including during religious holidays from about 8am to about 7pm. Scroll down after the maps for more tips and advice! 
Step 2: Cross the bridge and head across the river. The bridge depicted here is across from Wat Sangker (and in front of the Ministry of Tourism and Governor's Mansion). You can cross any bridge to get to this point, but make sure to turn left after Wat Sangker. You'll know you're on the right road when you see the roundabout with the giant statue of Ta Dambong - the black-skinned man with the stick who is the symbol of Battambang.
Step 4: Continue all the way down that road until you reach the end. There will be a large nightclub (the Chamroeun Serey Mongkol) directly in front of you. Turn left and then immediately right again. Continue down that road and the paving will turn into a dirt road. Continue straight just a little further and you've reached the bamboo train station!
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Tips and Advice for the Bamboo Train
1) Don't forget your sunscreen, sunglasses, and something to cover your head. The bamboo train is mostly in direct sunlight and poor planning will result in a bad sunburn!
2) The norry travels at a maximum speed of about 40km per hour, and you will enjoy a nice breeze when traveling. However, Cambodia is an extremely hot country and your journey will include lots of standing around in the sun waiting on the driver or for other trains to pass. We recommend bringing ample amounts of water so you don't get dehydrated. If you don't bring water, both the bamboo train station and the turnaround point will have vendors selling drinks, snacks, and souvenirs.
3) The train is also quite loud, making conversations during the trip difficult. If you have sensitive hearing or dislike loud noises, we recommend bringing earplugs - cheap sets of which can be found at various stores in downtown Battambang.
4) Many guests worry that the train isn't safe or is too frightening. Personally, I'm terrified of roller coasters and won't ride them but I find the norry to be a nice relaxing ride. If you DO find it too fast and frightening, take comfort in knowing that no tourist has EVER been injured on the bamboo train. Although it appears to be ramshackle, the train is actually a sophisticated machine designed to fit and hold together perfectly. People have been riding it for over 30 years without issue, so don't worry!
5) We STRONGLY recommend delaying your return journey and spending some time sitting and talking to the kind people at the train station and the turnaround point! They love spending time with visitors who are interested in their culture, and you will make amazing memories this way. Remember - the villages near the bamboo train are almost entirely supported by tourist money, so be patient with the children who may be a bit eager for your business and spend a little time getting to know them. You'll have about 10 minutes before your driver will insist you return, so buy some food, drink, or souvenirs to take back with you. But please, ask permission before taking pictures - and give the locals some money for their trouble.
6) You will likely encounter police officers at the station who will attempt to negotiate a ticket price for you. They often speak excellent English and are friendly, but be aware that they will take about $2 from every $5 ticket and keep it for themselves. Train drivers dislike losing this money but are powerless against the Cambodian authorities. Do NOT confront the police officers - you will only make more problems for the train drivers, including possibly inciting violence against them. Be friendly to everyone and give a few extra dollars to your train driver when you are away from the station and out of sight of the police.
7) Be advised that the railroad tracks are warped and bumpy. Ask your driver for a cushion to sit on to ease the bumps and jolts on your backside, as many bring cushions specifically for tourists. Also, be prepared for some surprise bumps! The train drivers like to scare tourists by going over bumps at high speeds without warning. Watch your driver carefully, as they will often sit up when nearing a large bump!
8) Also be aware that sections of the train will be surrounded by bushes, and many branches stick out over the train. When traveling at high speed, the branches can whip you and cause pain and injury. If possible, sit near the middle of the train and watch out for unpredictable branches!
9) Be friendly with your driver and ask him or her to teach you how to drive the train on your way back! If the tracks aren't too busy, they might let you take over and drive on your own!
10) When two trains meet, the drivers will decide which train has more cargo. The heavier train stays on the tracks, and the lighter train is taken apart to let the first train pass. Be aware that you will most likely have to stop and let another train pass at some point on your journey. When this happens, you will be stepping in dirt, red clay, and mud (during the rainy season). So wear appropriate shoes and be prepared to get dirty. And be kind when this happens, even when you're annoyed at being stopped for the third or fourth time - stopping is part of the experience and you should expect it before visiting the train!
11) Don't want to be part of the "losing" train that gets taken apart? Remember this trick: a train with a moto on it almost always wins. So if you take a moto to the train, ask your driver to join you (and pay for the ticket, of course), and take the moto with you. You'll avoid a great deal of hassle this way, although not all moto drivers will want to participate.
12) Some of the best scenery is just a minute or two past the normal stopping point and you won't get to see it. You used to be able to take a 4-5 hour trip to Phnom Teppedey, a small mountain temple and former Khmer Rouge killing site, down the track. Sadly, the development of the new railroad has interrupted this service.
13) Insider tip: instead of riding the train in the middle of the day when the heat is high, we recommend going right before sundown. On your return, ask your driver to stop on the concrete bridge to watch the sun set over the rice paddies - the site is one of the most beautiful in Cambodia. We've spent many evenings with some cold beer and wine or a picnic watching the sun set next to the bamboo train - it's our favourite not-so-secret secret!
14) The train will not operate in darkness, however, and closes shortly after sundown, so don't wait too long to visit!
2) The norry travels at a maximum speed of about 40km per hour, and you will enjoy a nice breeze when traveling. However, Cambodia is an extremely hot country and your journey will include lots of standing around in the sun waiting on the driver or for other trains to pass. We recommend bringing ample amounts of water so you don't get dehydrated. If you don't bring water, both the bamboo train station and the turnaround point will have vendors selling drinks, snacks, and souvenirs.
3) The train is also quite loud, making conversations during the trip difficult. If you have sensitive hearing or dislike loud noises, we recommend bringing earplugs - cheap sets of which can be found at various stores in downtown Battambang.
4) Many guests worry that the train isn't safe or is too frightening. Personally, I'm terrified of roller coasters and won't ride them but I find the norry to be a nice relaxing ride. If you DO find it too fast and frightening, take comfort in knowing that no tourist has EVER been injured on the bamboo train. Although it appears to be ramshackle, the train is actually a sophisticated machine designed to fit and hold together perfectly. People have been riding it for over 30 years without issue, so don't worry!
5) We STRONGLY recommend delaying your return journey and spending some time sitting and talking to the kind people at the train station and the turnaround point! They love spending time with visitors who are interested in their culture, and you will make amazing memories this way. Remember - the villages near the bamboo train are almost entirely supported by tourist money, so be patient with the children who may be a bit eager for your business and spend a little time getting to know them. You'll have about 10 minutes before your driver will insist you return, so buy some food, drink, or souvenirs to take back with you. But please, ask permission before taking pictures - and give the locals some money for their trouble.
6) You will likely encounter police officers at the station who will attempt to negotiate a ticket price for you. They often speak excellent English and are friendly, but be aware that they will take about $2 from every $5 ticket and keep it for themselves. Train drivers dislike losing this money but are powerless against the Cambodian authorities. Do NOT confront the police officers - you will only make more problems for the train drivers, including possibly inciting violence against them. Be friendly to everyone and give a few extra dollars to your train driver when you are away from the station and out of sight of the police.
7) Be advised that the railroad tracks are warped and bumpy. Ask your driver for a cushion to sit on to ease the bumps and jolts on your backside, as many bring cushions specifically for tourists. Also, be prepared for some surprise bumps! The train drivers like to scare tourists by going over bumps at high speeds without warning. Watch your driver carefully, as they will often sit up when nearing a large bump!
8) Also be aware that sections of the train will be surrounded by bushes, and many branches stick out over the train. When traveling at high speed, the branches can whip you and cause pain and injury. If possible, sit near the middle of the train and watch out for unpredictable branches!
9) Be friendly with your driver and ask him or her to teach you how to drive the train on your way back! If the tracks aren't too busy, they might let you take over and drive on your own!
10) When two trains meet, the drivers will decide which train has more cargo. The heavier train stays on the tracks, and the lighter train is taken apart to let the first train pass. Be aware that you will most likely have to stop and let another train pass at some point on your journey. When this happens, you will be stepping in dirt, red clay, and mud (during the rainy season). So wear appropriate shoes and be prepared to get dirty. And be kind when this happens, even when you're annoyed at being stopped for the third or fourth time - stopping is part of the experience and you should expect it before visiting the train!
11) Don't want to be part of the "losing" train that gets taken apart? Remember this trick: a train with a moto on it almost always wins. So if you take a moto to the train, ask your driver to join you (and pay for the ticket, of course), and take the moto with you. You'll avoid a great deal of hassle this way, although not all moto drivers will want to participate.
12) Some of the best scenery is just a minute or two past the normal stopping point and you won't get to see it. You used to be able to take a 4-5 hour trip to Phnom Teppedey, a small mountain temple and former Khmer Rouge killing site, down the track. Sadly, the development of the new railroad has interrupted this service.
13) Insider tip: instead of riding the train in the middle of the day when the heat is high, we recommend going right before sundown. On your return, ask your driver to stop on the concrete bridge to watch the sun set over the rice paddies - the site is one of the most beautiful in Cambodia. We've spent many evenings with some cold beer and wine or a picnic watching the sun set next to the bamboo train - it's our favourite not-so-secret secret!
14) The train will not operate in darkness, however, and closes shortly after sundown, so don't wait too long to visit!
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